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3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE
ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS
TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT
OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual
could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually
scaled-down industrial procedures.
3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece
of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are
displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater
than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the
mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order
explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which
may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high
order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately
equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high
explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks
apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.
T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder,
which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they
are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn
much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order
explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they
are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined,
they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave.
Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose,
a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently
used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by
the detonation of its primer.
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed
here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.
3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or
heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine
gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that
the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine
in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It
leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts.
Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the
ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on
the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously
washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist,
a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw
several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly
injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that
not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide
crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials Equipment
───────── ─────────
iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel.
The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic
chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle
is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved
side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone
into the funnel.
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about
eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of
about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be
thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which
gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One
possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight
containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them
where they will be stepped on or crushed.
3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it
of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of
the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
probably use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
───────── ─────────
mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod
concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully
add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes
should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive
and toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the
wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
3.13 NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not
the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the
all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is
converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
──────── ─────────
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
blue litmus paper
glycerine
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about
a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated
nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill
into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker
when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath
container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20
degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the
39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids
together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good
idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop
at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed
acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN
LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the
temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a
thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to
make any explosive in small quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution
in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the
acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is
far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.
Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored
in a secure cool place.
3.14 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they
are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with
metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the
water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it,
and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range
molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive,
and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.
3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun
stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise
wise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking
individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making
his own low-order explosives.
3.21 BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make,
but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
───────── ─────────
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container.
Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black
powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static
electricity.
3.22 NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
───────── ─────────
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this
10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water
to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to
be dried and stored.
3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can
be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact
sensitive; unstable
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
charcoal 15% unstable
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot
or magnesium 40%
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
and small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
================================================================================
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of the mixture.
3.24 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can
be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium
perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated
with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.
3.31 R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the
home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium
nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
───────── ─────────
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully
pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of
the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it
must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result.
Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice
and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium
nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is
put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below
zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5
until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable
and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should
be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium
nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a
density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap-
hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site,
since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive
to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a
drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending
a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
3.33 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick
up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate
when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight)
ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium
nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large
shockwave to set it off.
3.34 T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It
is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well
known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the
product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one
step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very
strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very
strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution,
and it is filtered.
3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
───────── ─────────
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e.
put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium
chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary,
add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to
greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however,
is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
3.36 DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase
the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.
3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All
that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric
and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of
concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold
water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are
more readily detonated.
3.38 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple
to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric
acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab
manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its
tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as
potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
───────── ─────────
phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask
concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in
distilled water filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap
water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.
It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that
required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since
it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal
containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia.
All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and
dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in
excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should
be ammonium picrate.
3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow
liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or
when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to
produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water.
Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it
remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric
acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass
pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the
beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow
droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down
to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires
timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently
heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes
from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating
flask in another flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
3.41 LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for
other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive
explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it
is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is
simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate
beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate
solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the
beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in
hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety.
If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead
metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.
3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can
be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials
presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.
3.51 THERMIT
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react
nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely
powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from
the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a
combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by
an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,
it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
─────────
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply
mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as
possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and
be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The
other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture
can be ignited.
3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and
can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such
as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,
turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle
will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very
hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the
container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the
paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the
acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance
of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if
there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
───────── ─────────
potassium chlorate glass bottle
(2 teaspoons) (12 oz.)
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle,
with plastic inside
concentrated cooking pan with raised
sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges
gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels
glass or plastic cup
and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the
acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until
a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on
the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside
to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water,
or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the
bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle
in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution
on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE,
CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.
3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To
make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be
to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other
gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and
on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to
the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas
would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large
fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container
often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By
using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition
are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the
canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would
probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas,
since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the
gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide,
hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.
4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to
apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism,
to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER
IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!
The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would
be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had
to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would
also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine
where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see
if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or
moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive
device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section.
4.1 SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak
in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
4.2 IGNITION DEVICES
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive
mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation
systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more
appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical
detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device
with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.
4.21 FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in
a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is
extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is
available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for
a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because
of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter.
Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses
fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be
acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not
just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does
not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity.
One such method is described below:
MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a
6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the
start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when
the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and
you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown
below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
────────── = 2.5 seconds per inch.
8 inches
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
─────────────────── = 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE,
AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA
INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is
to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and
cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not
pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard
base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one
to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches
touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not
to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling
on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making
sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces
the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches.
Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave
enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
_____________________
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
|.|
|_|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the
matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the
striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them.
In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the
burning match heads.
4.22 IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it
must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being
transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory
made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such
primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such
a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples
are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a
package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes
all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the
cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
| |
_ |
| | |
_______| |^^^^^^^^| |
| ___________| |
| | |
no. 11 |_______| |
percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing
cap here | | | nipple onto bomb
| |___________ |
|_______ | |
| |^^^^^^^^^| |
|_| |
|
|________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small
parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown,
should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with
mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it
strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person
carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe",
comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get
hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device
will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less
than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or
if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters
are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction
also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost
about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two
wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get,
but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run
through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs
can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium
chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black
powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order
explosive.
4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed
4.241 Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at
room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with
two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help
to explain a mercury switch.
______________
A / \ B
_____wire +______/___________ \
\ ( Hg ) | /
\ _(_Hg_)__|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only
touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury
does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position.
This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in
the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door
would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape.
This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to
touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the
igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it
slammed in your face by an explosion.
4.242 Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly
invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and
by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.
If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of
a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them,
and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can
be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the
contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the
tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to
flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,
which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between
the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it
it to explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
Insert strip of ----------------------------spring
wood with trip- _foil__________________________
wire between foil /_______________________________\
contacts.
Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since
the spring also conducts electricity.
4.243 Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes,
in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators
is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that
a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to
devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode,
all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the
motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the
elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the
squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The
device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully
charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part
that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
4.3 DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is
set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would
cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with
the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to
be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it
does.
4.31 FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average
cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating,
the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to
go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in
a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of
a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses
will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure
they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate
is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way
through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing
the fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end
A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet
of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with
powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a
fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused
with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with
powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of
charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks
of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first
brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply
store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse
about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the
home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of
boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all
cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries,
it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the
end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black
powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the
slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of
slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black
powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper
is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is
allowed to dry.
4.32 TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place
if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay.
By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired,
and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less
than an hour is desired.
___________________________________ to igniter from igniter
| |
| 12 | : :
| 11 1 | : :
| | : :
| 10 2 | : :
| o................|......: :
| | :
| 9 3 | :
| | :
| | :
| 8 4 | :
| o.........|...... :
| 7 5 | : :
| 6 | :.+.....-.....:
|__________________________________| __|_____|
| |
| battery |
o - contacts | |
..... - wire | |
|___________|
This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of the
clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit,
allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in
an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing
the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or
igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize
this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer
could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would
be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from
the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib
would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that
would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would
not have to be stepped up.
4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in
some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid,
and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum
foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is
forming does not break the container. See diagram on following page.
_ _
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |_____________| |
| | | |
| | sulfuric | |
| | | |
| | acid | |
| | | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured
there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that
eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed
underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container,
a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the
wires are immersed in the acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If
the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate,
the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be
used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter
for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50
ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for
the rest of the thermit.
3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.
4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to
a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which
are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror.
4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was
first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very
simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses
for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers
and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it
together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and
dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of
Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their
manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet
of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so
that it looks like this:
________________________________________________________
| |\
| | \
| | \
|______________________________________________________|___\
and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
_______________________________________________________
| /|
| / |
| / |
|__________________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex,
flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel-
oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then
inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill
out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped
together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container,
and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished
polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one
shown below:
^
/ \ ----- securely tape all corners
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse
4.42 METAL CONTAINERS
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained
explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match
heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-
tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills
the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause
enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the
unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the
less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would
buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in
one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder
will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long
inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,
possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then
pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take a
large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the
powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil
or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, he
would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help
prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe
cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder,
causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2.
_________ _______________ __________
| | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | |
| |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | ___________________________ | |
| | | | | |
| |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| |
|_______| |________|
fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.
________ ________
| _____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
| | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ----------------------
| | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| |________|_________________________________| |
| |__________________________________________| |
|______| |______|
endcap pipe endcap
w/ hole
fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb.
This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however,
he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a
piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable
position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding
it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper
pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb
out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps.
First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure
not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded
over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be
drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.
Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack
it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other
end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this
slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which
could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:
________
_______________________________________________/ |
| |
| o |
|______________________________________________ |
\_______|
fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)
______
____________________________________________/ | |
| | |
| o | |
|___________________________________________ | |
\__|__|
fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)
____________ fuse hole
|
v
_________________________________________________
| \ |____ |
| \____| |
| ______|
| /
|_____________________________/__________________
fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)
_________________ fuse
/
|
________ ______________________________|___ _______
| ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ |
| |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |
|________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______|
\ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
\_____________________________________/
fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive
(side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for
a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming
to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge
with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the
CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-
oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called
"crater makers".
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary
device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so
that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The
fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the
thermit.
The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for
low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the
latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller
low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order
explosive would probably be used. It would look something like:
_______________________ fuse
|
|
|
_________ | _________
| ____|__________________________|___________|____ |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | |
| | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | |
| | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | |
| | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | |
| | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | |
| | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| |______________________________________________| |
|_______| |_______|
If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge,
then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb,
which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there
are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively
easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the
not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would
probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of
a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he
still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of
his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by
a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal
detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill
the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly
in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.
________________________ fuse
|
|
|
_____|_____
| ___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap
| > | < |
| | |
| |
| |
| | screw cap on bottle
| |
| |
V V
_________
< >
< >
< >
/ \
/ \
/ \
| | fill bottle with low-order explosive
| |
| |
| |
| |
|___________|
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,
since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive
that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger
than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for
high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand
the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was
able to detonate.
4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since
they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping
can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones
used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with
plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not
detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by
heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be
glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used
as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a
drying agent works best in this type of device.
|| ||
|| ||
||\_____________/||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||** explosive **||
||***************||
||***********----------------------- fuse
||***************||
||───────────────||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
|| _____________ ||
||/ \||
|| ||
|| ||
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the
device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue
paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe
works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an
inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used
int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.
4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person
who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this
information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. Advanced
uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount
of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve high-
order explosives.
4.51 SHAPED CHARGES
A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs
the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be
used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds
of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order
explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL
EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!
An example of a shaped charge is shown below.
+ wire ________ _______ - wire
| |
| |
| |
_ _________|_________|____________
^ | ________|_________|__________ |
| | | | | | |
| | | \ igniter / | |
| | | \_______/ | |
| | | priming charge | |
| | | (mercury fulminate) | |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | / \ | |
8 inches high | | / \ | |
| | / high \ | |
| | | / explosive \ | |
| | | / charge \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch
| | | / \ | | thick steel
| | | / \ | | pipe
| | | / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| hole for | | | | hole for
| screw | | | | screw
| | | | |
V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________
|______| |____________| |_____________| |______|
|<------- 8 inches -------->|
If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening
of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the
explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device
such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful
electromagnet.
4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES
A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that
shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with
a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive
container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced;
a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of
explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole.
The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever
it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like
this:
|| ||
|| ||
||\____/||
|| epoxy||
||______||
|| ||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||______||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| RDX ||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| ____ ||
|| | s| ||
|| | q| ||
|| | u| ||
|| | i| ||
|| | b| ||
|| | b| ||
|| |__| ||
||__||__||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||__||__||
|| || ||
|| epoxy||
|| || ||
|| _||_ ||
||/ || \||
|| || ||
|| || ||
||_______ + wire ______________
|
|________ - wire ______________
When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap
it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube
bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires,
and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation.
4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small
particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion
similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The
tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,
pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and
ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push
the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle
explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly
flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge,
or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be
extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon
jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge
was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this
occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely
occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish
this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead
of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high
explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion
does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material.
4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked
in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case,
once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the
bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the
glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base
with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient
to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the
socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be
done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been
used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the
room for a bomb without first turning on the light.
4.55 BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched
by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend
to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is
called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of
a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of
the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual
makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for
the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a
book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping
saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling
the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will
hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution
has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,
the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each
page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.
Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice
works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must
be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.
Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a
rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell
of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling
or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has
been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its
destination.
4.56 PHONE BOMBS
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past
to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the
person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high
explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the
current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the
high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is
acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece
cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was.
Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver,
and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1.
Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whom
the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and
remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that
the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the
phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable
that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...